Pitting, those small holes that form in metal, is a type of corrosion caused by a process called depassivation. In the case of aluminum on a boat, the main culprit for pitting is salt water.
Remove Pitting from Aluminum Boats
Listed below are some tried and true methods for removing this common and annoying corrosion that has plagued many a boat owner. Start by rinsing off all the dirt from the aluminum surface. A power washer can be pretty useful for blasting away grime, but you can also use a hose. Next, wash the surface with a soap that has mild alkalinity.
The next thing you want to do is remove the corrosion. Listed below are a few different methods you can try:. Use a rotating buffer or fine steel wool and buff the sanded area. Rub the surface until it appears smooth and free of all pitting. If you still have problem spots repeat step 2.
Finish by wiping off all debris with a clean microfiber towel. Do you have a method for the eradication of pitting? Please leave a comment in the comments section or shoot us an email.
You must be logged in to post a comment. Search for:. Remove Pitting from Aluminum Boats. Step 1: Wash Start by rinsing off all the dirt from the aluminum surface. Step 2: Abrade The next thing you want to do is remove the corrosion. Listed below are a few different methods you can try: Method 1: Dry Sanding — Begin with a higher grit sandpaper and work your way to a finer grit Use the more abrasive sandpaper to remove the deep pits, and then switch to the finer paper.
Do two or three rounds of sanding, using finer grit than the last for each round. Method 2: Wet Sanding — Some people prefer to use a wet sanding method for pitting removal, because it does not produce as much dust and does not clog the sandpaper as often as dry sanding.
For this method, sand using sandpaper specifically for wet sanding dry sand paper will fall apart. Start with a grit of aroundmix a bowl of water with a few drops of dish washing liquid, wet the paper, and sand the pitting off the aluminum. Finish using a fine grit of around just like the dry sanding method. Method 3: Razor blade — Some boat owners prefer to use a razor blade to scratch off hard to remove pitting from aluminum.Repair the most common problem with aluminum boats and canoes: leaking seams and rivets in aluminum boats with the Aluminum Boat Repair Kit.
Illustrated, detailed instructions explain how to repair leaking seams and rivets in aluminum boats. All components are contained in a sturdy, resealable package. Visit Epoxyworks. The first step is to find the leak. This is fairly easy—just fill the inside with water up to the waterline. To reduce the possibility of destruction or distortion, I tilted the boat and only filled one end at a time since filling the boat up entirely might have done more damage to the seams. On each boat I repaired, I found many rivets that merely seeped water.
However, I also found at least one that poured a constant stream. These bigger leaks were the main cause of water inside the craft during normal use.
One boat actually carried a bilge pump to help keep up with the bailing. I circled any leaking rivet or seam with a black marker. With the leaks identified and marked, here are the techniques used for the repair. Flip the boat over for easier access to the bottom and prepare the surface for bonding.
For the seams, clean out any debris that might still be stuck inside. On the rivets, I used a wire brush in a circular motion to abrade the surface. A wire brush attachment on a cordless drill made the job even easier.
Then fill the seams and rivets in this area while the aluminum is still warm. This lets you do the repair without flipping the boat over. Complete heating and filling each rivet or seam section before moving on to the next to avoid too much heat loss. Once the epoxy is cured, you are ready for an immediate water test.
The boats I repaired in our shop were taken right out to the water and thoroughly abused. Skip to content.Aluminum is a versatile metal, used in construction, transportation and aeroscience. Its characteristics, such as low density and corrosion resistance, make it a popular and useful material.
Aluminum is also percent recyclable and easily can be repaired. Whether you want to fix your aluminum siding or mend your aluminum boat, you may want to know how to repair holes in aluminum. Clean the area around the hole in the aluminum with a sponge soaked in warm water mixed with liquid detergent. Rinse thoroughly with water to remove the detergent, dirt and debris. If the hole has parts of the aluminum lifted around it, like flaps, press them down to cover a part of the hole to minimize the damage, If the flaps are severely damaged or uneven, it is better to remove them with tin snips or a similar tool.
Mix epoxy according to the instructions on the package. Stir the mixture with a putty knife. Apply the epoxy mixture on the hole, precisely covering it as seamlessly as possible. Leave the epoxy to dry, harden and cure thoroughly for at least one hour.
Apply the epoxy mixture on the hole, precisely covering it as seamless as possible. Use the putty knife to spread the epoxy on the aluminum surface. Cut a piece of aluminum about 1 inch bigger than the hole, using tin snips. Place the patch over the hole, holding it with a steel clamp. Weld the patch onto the aluminum with a propane torch. Heat the torch and start welding all around the edges. Continue melting the metal and blending the patch together with the surface of the aluminum until the hole is repaired.
Leave the repaired area to cool off thoroughly and to cure. Sand the repaired area with sandpaper, starting with coarse-grit and then moving to fine-grit. Make the patched area blend seamlessly into the aluminum surface as much as you can. Paint the whole surface, using metal paint and a paintbrush, to cover the damage and refresh the look of the aluminum. Based in Marlboro, New Jersey, Karen Miller has been writing business- and health-related articles since Hunker may earn compensation through affiliate links in this story.
Tip You can use special aluminum filler instead of the epoxy mixture. Warning A propane torch is potentially dangerous, so take all necessary precautions. Step 1 Clean the area around the hole in the aluminum with a sponge soaked in warm water mixed with liquid detergent. Step 2 Mix epoxy according to the instructions on the package. Step 3 Apply the epoxy mixture on the hole, precisely covering it as seamless as possible.
Step 4 Treat the damaged area and the nearby area as well with fine-grit sandpaper. Step 1 Cut a piece of aluminum about 1 inch bigger than the hole, using tin snips.
Step 2 Weld the patch onto the aluminum with a propane torch. Step 3 Sand the repaired area with sandpaper, starting with coarse-grit and then moving to fine-grit. Share this article. Karen Miller. Show Comments.Aluminum boots are useful than fiberglass and wood. They are lightweight, fast, and maneuverable.
As compared to wood, these boats are durable. Wood rot is common in wooden-hulled boats. You can avoid this problem with aluminum. For this reason, aluminum boats are easy to repair. Unfortunately, an aluminum boat does have some risk of damage, hard-grounding, or collision. These problems may increase the chances of cracked seams and leaks. With brazen rods, you can fill in and patch holes of damaged boats. In this situation, boat owners can get advantage of self-repairs.
Here are some easy steps for repair:.
How to Repair an Aluminum Boat Hull
Remove your boat from the water and move it to a port or covered garage. Put three sawhorses on a flat surface in a triangular configuration. Ask someone to lift the boat and balance its sides. Clean its damaged area with some rags and acetone. Make sure to remove water and mud stains and algae.
Before you start cleaning, wear gloves and a mask for your protection. Put your boat in a position to face the crack or hole at an upward highest position. Ask an assistant to hold the anvil when you wield a hammer. Aluminum may suffer a collision impact to cause an inward dent in the metal.
Make sure to pound this dent out from the hill using a body hammer. Your assistant should use one hand anvil to offer a backstop. Flatten the outline of the body by straightening and tapping. You have to stretch aluminum to imitate its actual shape. Before repairing a dent, make sure to determine its size.
Feel free to use aluminum scrap strips to back it. Dab epoxy on thin strips of aluminum and glue these pieces to the base of your boat.
You have to cover the crack. It will offer a manger for material like a brazen rod to settle in. With the help of a drill motor and a grinding cone, you can grind a channel V-shaped in a crack. If your boat has a puncture, bevel the inner of a hole puncture with a cone bit and grind to get more surface area for the brazen weld.
Remember, the brazen weld must adhere to this place. Use grit sandpaper to sand the area of the crack and overlap this area on every side. A propane torch will help you to heat a cracked area thoroughly. Scrape this area with a wire brush; use crosshatch strokes to uneven the aluminum surface. Make sure to hold consistent heat on a crack to fix the HTS brazen rod on the crack sides.Aluminum boats have several advantages over wood and fiberglass.
They have lighter gross weights, which make them highly maneuverable, faster and more economical to run. Wood rot, typical in wooden hulled boats, does not affect aluminum, nor does aluminum shatter upon impact like fiberglass.
This makes aluminum boats easier to repair than other designs. Unfortunately, all boats suffer impact damage, collision or hard-grounding that can lead to leaks and cracked seams. Fortunately, special brazen rods have been designed specifically to patch and fill in holes on damaged aluminum boats, allowing boat owners to perform self repairs. Remove the boat from the water and take it to a sheltered garage or port.
Place three sawhorses in a triangular configuration on a level surface. Have an assistant help you lift the boat up and balance it hull side up on the three points formed by the saw horses.
Clean the damaged area on the aluminum with some acetone and rags, removing algae, mud and all chemical water stains. Wear a particle mask and gloves for protection. Place the boat in such a position as to face the hole or crack at its highest upward position. Have your assistant hold the hand anvil while you wield the hammer. If the aluminum has suffered a collision impact that has dented the metal inward, you will need to pound the dent out from inside the hull with a body hammer, while your assistant provides a backstop with the hand anvil.
Straighten the profile of the hull as best you can by repeated tapping and straightening -- you need the stretched aluminum to conform closely to its original shape. Determine the size of the crack or hole and whether you need to back it with some scrap strips of aluminum. If so, dab a small amount of epoxy on a thin strip of aluminum and glue the piece to the underside of the boat directly over the crack.
This will provide a trough for the brazen rod material to settle in. Use a drill motor and a grinding cone bit to grind a V-shaped channel in the crack.
In the case of a hole puncture, bevel the inside of the hole with the cone bit, grinding only enough away to provide more surface area for the brazen weld to adhere to. Sand the surface area of the crack with grit sandpaper, overlapping the crack area on all sides. Use a propane torch to heat up the crack area thoroughly. Scrape a wire brush over the area, using crosshatch strokes to rough up the aluminum surface.
Hold steady heat on the crack while you apply a tip of HTS brazen rod over the crack sides. Let the brazen melt and flow into the crack or hole, filling it up. Melt the brazen rod onto the damaged area to cover and overlap it completely. While it cools, scrape the wire brush over it to remove small slag and residue.
Use a flat file to grind away any excess brazen material that protrudes up past the aluminum panel surface. You want a nice even profile, without removing the thickest part of the brazen weld.
Remove the scrap aluminum material from the underside of the hull. For added strength and protection, you and your assistant can flip the boat over and sand the inside part of the crack area. Run another bead of heated brazen weld over the crack area, and then file it down. Chris Stevenson has been writing since His automotive vocation has spanned more than 35 years and he authored the auto repair manual "Auto Repair Shams and Scams" in Aluminum boat repair is made easy with the HTS second-generation brazing rod.
Many people buy aluminum boats because aluminum is light, fast, flexible and seaworthy. As with any kind of boat, sometimes boat repair is necessary. Hull damage to an aluminum boat can occur from abrupt groundings, collision with other objects or just wear and tear over time.
Aluminum boat repair is much easier than boats made with steel or fiberglass hulls. Aluminum is light, strong, corrosion-resistant, non-sparking and can be fixed with an HTS brazing rod without a welding machine.
Pitting, cracks and crevice corrosion are three of the drawbacks of any aluminum boat over the long haul. Sometimes aluminum boats will develop small leaks and need repair. The HTS is a no-flux brazing rod and all that is needed besides the brazing rod is a heat source propane or mapp gasa turbo tip, or oxy-acetylene. Boat repair can be accomplished even by those with no experience. Please see the video link on aluminumrepair. In addition to boat repair, other boat-related repair can also be conducted quickly and easily as well.
For instance, repair to a boat engine or engine housing, fuel tanks or even the boat trailer is a snap with our products. Besides boat repair, the HTS can also repair engine blocks, radiators, fuel tanks, air conditioners, latches, brackets, rivets and many more aluminum surfaces and objects.
So, if you have an aluminum boat and are in need of a quick and easy method for boat repair, look no further than our industrial strength, second-generation line of boat repair products. Still have questions?
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How to Repair your Aluminum Boat Hull?
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